Saturday, January 31, 2009

Estelí, Estelí... it´s a kind of boring town

Welcome to the sleepy town of Estelí. Here are some of the highlights. Not a lot happens in Estelí. You may want some coffee. I´ve made this more exciting by adding some captions in my modest attempt at Dutch. The English and Dutch captions may or may not say the same things. I haven´t decided yet. Use Google Translate to check for yourself. (NOTE: A lack of excitement is not a bad thing. Don´t forget that I am a tremendously boring person)

This is Esteli´s crest. The little drawing in the middle is a medicine man. I would identify the flowers and trees in the crest but I am no botanist.

Dit is de "logo" voor de stad van Estelí. De gebouw waar op dit staat is de biblioteek vlak bij de centrum van de stad. Blauw en wit zijn de kleuren van Nicaragua en de klein tekening in de midden is een tradicionele medische man.



Estelí is known for its excellent, elaborate, metaphorical (see the chains of the European conquest and of colonialism? I caught those... not much else...) murals. These appear anywhere that there is a long wall. A number of them are painted by a local children´s group. Apparently those kids paint far better than most Canadian adults...

Estelí (en andere staden in de noord van Nicaragua) zijn bekend voor hun ontzetend mooie schilderijen. De schilderijen, voor de meeste, vertellen een verhaal, vaak over de historie van Nicaragua. Daar is en heel interesante historie hier, vool met revoluties, veranderingen in control, en "intervention" van andere landen. Veel van de schilderijen in Estelí zijn gemaakt door kinderen.

A day in Estelí. In theory I should be in the shade but what kind of tourist would that make me? Notice the door which is not quite as ornate as the murals above.
Een dag in Estelí. Het is en kleine stad met niet veel te doen. In de middag, meeste mensen rusten ("siesta"). Dit was mij siesta... maar ik had niet in de zon moeten zitten!


Where´s Waldo? This was my response to Amy´s remark that I would be accused of using stock Internet photos of Estelí unless I crossed the street and gave a smiling thumbs-up to the camera.
Dit is de centrum van Estelí, een park die een blok bij een blok is. Elke dag, mensen verkoopen allerlij dingen in de park, van eten tot kleeden en videos.

Estelí´s central avenue. I told you nothing happens. If you squint you can make out one of Estelí´s two stop lights. They make things more dangerous for pedestrians because they give you a false sense of security. Two-thirds of the cars in the picture were likely honking when this picture was taken.

Dit is een van twee "groote" wegen in Estelí. De andere is de "snelweg" die door de heel Central Amerika rijd. In de weg in de foto, zijn der heel veel winkelen. In de achtergrond, kunt u mischien een van Estelí´s twee stoplichten zien!


Arguably (though an easy argument to win) the only ornate, "photogenic" building in Estelí, this is the cathedral. You´ll notice that there are no people in either picture. This is because normal people don´t stand out in the sun at 1:00 in the afternoon. In all likelihood I was being mocked and laughed at. These are the things I endure for your photo-viewing pleasure.
Dit is de katedraal in Estelí, net naast de park. Het is (denk ik) de enige "mooie" gebouw in de stad. Daar zijn geen mensen in de fotos want iedereen die hier woont blijfd in de schadu elke middag (het is gewoon te heet om in de zon te staan). Het is wel goed voor fotos te nemen!
So, there you have it. Estelí. I would say that it is a happening town but I would be lying. I would also say that I´m a happening person but I would also be lying. Estelí and I are a good fit.

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

A day in the life... (and a brief note about cheese)

Things have started to settle into a bit of a (busy) routine here. Allow me to regale you with stories of a day in the life of Vince in Nicaragua...

But first, a note about cheese. Most people who know me know that I do not eat a lot of cheese and that my cheese-eating habits are strange to say the least (melted cheese good, cheese on crackers bad. Cream cheese lathered on bagel good, cream cheese elsewhere bad.). To make things easy here, though, and to finally step into that stage of life called maturity, I decided to just tell my home-stay family that I eat everything. I have since come to regret that decision ever so slightly. Why, you ask? Because of cheese, I answer. Cheese here come in all types (including unpasteurized) but seems in my family to come in only one size: excessively large. Granted I have no reference point, but I am reasonably sure that I ate about a quarter of a wheel of cheese last night. This cheese didn´t come sliced with crackers, though, it came in massive deep-fried chunks. A few slices would have been fine (just think of them as mozza sticks), but several slabs were excessive and, for the first time, I had a minor stomach gurgle or two. However, being the gracious guest, I ate it all with a smile. Thinking that I would find reprieve in my typically all-fresh-fruit breakfast the next morning, I nearly died when I discovered leftover deep-fried cheese chunks in my scrambled eggs. It has not been a gastrointestinally delightful 16 hours. If I see more cheese tonight, I could crumble. You will know by the conspicuous lack of blog postings.

Also, as an addendum to my last post, I forgot to mention the most obvious of the honking messages: "You are a woman and I am a disgusting man aiming to impress others around me." I´m certainly not saying that the treatment of women in Canada is perfect, but the sexism here (set in this idea of machismo) is frightening. I truly cannot imagine being a woman here.

That was a little bit heavy, I apologize. On to lighter issues, like my first attempt to hand wash my clothes today. Much to the delight of the three women in the house this afternoon, I made a valiant attempt at hand-washing my clothes. The outrageously time-consuming process, approximately 5 minutes per article of clothing, involved a sort of pre-soaking and pre-cleaning in detergent, washing and agitating with a bar of laundry soap, and then rinsing. My clothes are drying now so the final result is still up in the air, but a few indicators of success:
-The detergent water got dirty and I had to replace it often.
-After a few minutes and an observation I stopped getting tips. This might also be an indication of outright failure and a loss of hope on the part of my teacher.
-I saw suds. The bad news is that the rinsing step was incredibly difficult and I still saw suds after I hung the clothes to dry. Soap scum, here I come. Woo, rhyme!
-The clothes smelled better than when I started.
-I was sweating ridiculously and felt like a nap, meaning that at least some energy was transferred into the clothes.

Anyways, I was going to talk about a day in the life so... here you have it, beginning at 00:00.
-At 12:00 AM, I am fast asleep. If I were a light sleeper, the creaky tin roof, dog fights (random, not organized), birds trying to get in, and loud cars may wake me. I am no light sleeper.
-Unfortunately, I am not in a coma, so I do get woken up at about 5:30 by the family´s car which consistently takes at least 7 tries to start. The family seems to have moved past frustration and onto acceptance that their car just won´t start on the first six tries. My room is next to the garage. After the car leaves (the father in the family works a couple of hours away hence the early departure), I roll over and fall asleep anew.
-At 6:40, my alarm rings. I hit snooze.
-At 6:44, my alarm rings again. I get out of bed.
-After cleaning my room a bit (I could only hang my mosquito net on the "foot" side of the bed so I sleep on the bed the wrong way (my feet near the head board). I don´t want to confuse my family and have an awkward talk about how beds work in Nicaragua so I re-make the bed the "right" way every morning.
-At this point, I emerge from my room, and play with the three-year old and/or watch Discovery Kids (Barney and friends- which is weirdly explicitly "culturally diverse"... more on that some other day). It is incredible how quickly the child goes from running and screaming to standing motionless two feet from the television. I haven´t quite figured out the triggers yet.
-At 7:00, breakfast is ready. It has typically been all-fruit, but of late, the family seems to be testing out various other choices on me. The pancakes are outrageously delicious, but the fruit really can´t be beat. The mother in the family normally eats with me and we chat in Spanish about a random topic- government (Nicaraguan conversation is enjoyably political and everyone is fine with agreeing to disagree. A vivid debate can be followed by a joint outing to a café... it is very refreshing).
-At 7:15, I have a very difficult choice to make. Is this a shower / personal hygiene day, or a Spanish-improvement conversation day? Far too often, I have chosen the latter. Sorry. If it´s a hygiene day, it´s off to the cold shower for a shower that tows the line between refreshing and unbearable. If it´s a particularly lucky hygiene day, I may shave. That, too, has happened far too infrequently (due in part to the slightly dirty, dusty mirror in my room that masks my grotesque facial hair. I caught a glimpse of myself in a clean mirror the other day and had my hands up to my face, hiding my beard, the rest of the day.) If it´s a conversation day, we carry on our breakfast talk until 7:45ish.
-At 7:45, I pack my bag and head to school.
-From 8:00 until about 10:30 I have Spanish class, followed by a delightful bell sound for "recess" (Spanish small talk), and then more class from 10:45 until noon.
-At 12:15, I have returned home for lunch. This is a tough meal for me because, although it is delicious, I rarely eat lunch in Canada, choosing instead to occupy myself chewing gum. Here, though, it is a massive lunch with some conversation in Spanish.
-From 1:00ish until just before 2:00, I will normally do homework, watch Discovery Kids, or do some needed task (like attempt to wash clothes).
-At 2:00 (on most weekdays) I´m back at school for the afternoon activity, be it a visit to prenatal classes (where some students who will remain nameless thought it appropriate to take pictures... seriously, it was unreal. Can you imagine in the middle of a class about getting your newborn to latch, how to wash your newborn´s genitalia, and how to clean birth gunk (my translation) off of your fresh newborn, someone stands up, walks to the front of the class, and snaps a picture? My jaw dropped.), a visit to a natural medicine center (weird translation story that I think I shared), or some other community group or organization.
-The activities thus far have gone until about 4:00 or 4:30 at which time I normally swing by the Internet café to do some things before...
-Heading home for supper. Supper is sometime between 6:00 and 7:00 and I usually eat supper either alone or with the 3-year old because the mom and dad eat when he returns from work.
-After supper, I may head to a phone center, take a little walk-about, or just do more homework. My new Spanish teacher gives me a lot of homework (a mini-essay every day in addition to a couple of worksheets) that is teetering on the edge of exhausting.
-It gets dark here around 6:00, so it is weird to do too much after that. I am normally in bed by 9:00 and, after some reading, writing, and more homework, I doze off before 10:00, eagerly awaiting the sound of the car in the morning.

I think that that is about it. My days will definitely change when I´m done at the Spanish school, so maybe I will give a daily routine again in a month or so.

While you wait for that, here are a few more pictures of the farm. Ideally, I would share pictures of everyday life here, but I didn´t want to get up in the middle of the umbilical cord cleansing demonstration. Sorry. (On a more serious note, I will take and post pictures of my room, house, school, and city at some point, but again, the urgency just isn´t there at this point).

The view from the farm. After coming back to Estelí, I actually missed the lush, quiet farm. I would say that you can see why, but you haven´t really seen Estelí.

The farm. Those are coffee sorting trays you see. Those plants with pink leaves are really cool. There was a grapefruit tree, orange tree, and mandarin tree just to the left of this area.

I guess I only had two more loaded on my USB key, sorry. I will upload a few more for next time.

Monday, January 26, 2009

May these pictures induce jealousy...

Apparently pictures take a while to upload. Here are a couple of my farm trip:


The wonderful banana tree and its strange red stump thing.


This is the view from the road to the farm. The roads in this area went up and down and around the mountains instead of through the mountains like they do in Canada. It made for wonderful views.

One of about six river crossings.

The farm. Not a bad weekend retreat.

The wonderful coffee bean prior to picking, sorting, depulping, cleaning, sorting, drying, sorting, deshelling, and roasting. Also the massive bags of beans are carried up and down hills that I could barely climb with nothing in my hands. Enjoy your coffee, folks. Also enjoy my macro-zoom prowess.

I have more pictures but I am hungry and it is supper time. Too bad because the pictures were really nice.

La Finca (The Farm)... or how to drive 160 kilometers in over 4 hours...

I know that you have all missed my calming presence, but unfortunately my ability to share stories is directly related to the town´s ability to have an Internet connection- something that was lacking (along with power and water) for the entire district yesterday. No matter, though, as the lights are back on (as of yesterday afternoon), the water is spotty (but back in my house!), and the Internet is connected again... what more could one want?

I had a pretty exciting weekend because I got to visit a farm that belongs to my professor and her husband. The first thing that I noticed rather quickly is that my definition of a farm (basically a flat field with animals and/or crops) is way off. The farms in this region are mostly on hills and are for the most part a mixture of crops including coffee, corn, beans, bananas, fruit trees, etc. produced for both personal consumption and market/export. The farm is near a town called El Cua, about 160 kilometers away from Estelí and, with a few stops at family members´houses, we arrived at 3:00 on Saturday, having left at 9:30. You are welcome to do the math but our average speed was probably close to 30 km/h. The roads were potholed and bumpy but no one got sick- hooray! Stories from the road are plentiful so I will share just a few. I am very, very excited to report that we had several hop-ons (or the appropriate Arrested Development stair-car term that escapes me...) in the back of our pick-up truck. In some parts the road was so bumpy that we invited the hop-ons into the truck itself lest they go flying from the back- something that I cannot believe did not happen! Although our hop-ons communicated quite well by slamming the roof or whistling when they reached their destination, I did hear a delightful story about a hop-on who didn´t make enough noise and ended up twenty minutes from his destination!

Also, because roads aren´t just for cars, we almost killed several species, including dogs, chickens, and pigs. No species came closer to death, however, than a human. I wish I was exaggerating (sp?)(my English spelling has been affected by the wonderfully phonetic Spanish language, my apologies). Back to the story. We were cruising down a gravel road with the usual traffic of animals, walkers, and cyclists surrounding us when, despite our informative "hello we are behind you" honk, a child on a bike cut in front of us coming within inches of death. Never before have I ever seen such a close call. Amidst the shock and heart attacks, our young travel companion (my professor´s 10 year old) calmly pointed out to his father that it wouldn´t have been his fault had he struck and killed the child, a statement that seemed oddly out of place. My lawyer friends are welcome to comment on whose fault that would have been.

Car horns here play a strange role in rules of the road. I have thus far identified seven distinct messages conveyed by honking (similar to Ghana, I should note):
-¨Hello my friend, you have your back to me and may not be able to hear me even though my radio is set about 300 decibels louder than necessary and my car backfires every three seconds"
-"Good day sir, I thank you for your informative honk and acknowledge that I have heard you and have somehow deciphered your meaning"
-"You are walking on the wrong side of the road you stupid white boy."
-"Despite the speed at which I am coming towards you, you may cross the road."
-"I am coming at you very quickly and you should not cross the road."
-"I think I recognize you. You know my brother´s friend´s mother-in-law."
-"Would you care to enter my taxi?" ... not to be confused with... "Would you care to see that my taxi is full?"

This final option can also be used for buses and trucks.

Where was I? Back to the farm. So we arrived at 3:00 and realized at that point that the four wheel drive on our truck did not work and we could not get up the driveway. This conclusion was reached after no less than two dozen attempts to get up, including several where all five passengers (myself, my professor´s son, two of his cousins, and my professor´s husband´s stepfather) were in the back of the truck, trying to weigh down the back wheels. Two particularly frightening attempts had the stepfather standing on the back bumper, attempting to weigh down the back as the truck fishtailed and raced up the driveway. How that man did not fly off of the truck is beyond my comprehension. Every conceivable law of physics was violated. After deciding to leave the truck on the hilly, two meters up the 100 meter driveway, we headed to the farm. The farm is a beautiful, lush, green paradise with coffee, bananas, fruit trees, corn, chickens, sugar cane, and probably more. The two Spanish-speaking cousins that came with us were more than happy to share the Spanish names of all of the fruits, vegetables, trees, and animals we passed. It was all delightfully educational. One particularly neat thing on the trip was the ability to see almost the entire coffee process from start to finish. I won´t share the details (which I found to be quite interesting) but will say the following:
-Enjoy your coffee because the process is painstaking and intensely manual.
-Enjoy your coffee because they drink the crappy stuff (what doesn´t make the cut) on farms here so that you may do just that.
-Coffee pulp smells repulsive. Do not think of that smell when you drink your coffee.
-I may have touched a bean in your coffee. I apologize.

The chronology of these stories confuses me. I forget where I was and what I was going to share. Let me just stop, then, and end by saying that the trip to the farm was tremendous. I got to see a wild, lush, mountainous landscape unlike that in Estelí, I got to see the coffee process, I got to visit several small towns and cities in this part of Nicaragua, and I finally took some pictures! I ate deliciously, as I have been doing, and had several wonderful experiences. I may or may not have communicated those above. I am too lazy to scroll up and check.

On the Spanish-speaking front, things are progressing. I was a quasi-translator today. I may or may not have done a good job. Judgment day for that will be tomorrow and will be whether the natural medicine product given to my new Icelandic classmate cured her GI issues. If she is not in class tomorrow I fear that my translation work is sub-par.

¡Hasta luego!

Friday, January 23, 2009

My second ever post... this deserves an upside down exclamation point... ¡Hoorah!

Well here you have it, post number two. I believe that this makes this an official blog, though I am not sure of the specifics. Sit back and enjoy a story or two, won´t you?

Allow myself to start with a fun Nicaraguan fact. Because of the fragile state of the plumbing infrastructure in the country, one does not flush one´s toilet paper down the toilet but rather one places it in a garbage pail beside the toilet. Strangely enough, this isn´t really mentioned (it was written in our first hostel but I haven´t seen it written or posted anywhere else, not even my handy guidebook) and seems to be a mostly unspoken rule. Either that or everyone is laughing at the white guy who doesn´t flush his toilet paper...

Allow myself to continue with a quiz game based on a horrendous character that Amy and I met yesterday on our way to school. While I don´t mean to spoil the answer to the quiz, it is worth noting that I consider this gentleman to be the face of racism and living proof of the legacy of colonialism. This man, a 60-something year old British man who has been living in Estelí for five months, told us that while there are drawbacks to living in Estelí / Nicaragua, there are advantages as well. What were the advantages? (¡Quiz time!)
A) The beautiful landscape and warm climate.
B) The welcoming attitude of families and individuals in Estelí.
C) The fresh fruit, delicious food, and wonderful eateries.
D) "I can finally get some domestic help. It´s funny, she´s very clever but utterly ignorant. She knows nothing. Luckily for her I´ve been teaching her some things."

Don´t let the quotation marks give the answer away...

Amy commented that it is weird to meet these types of people here. Normally close-minded, overtly racist individuals like that don´t leave their homes...

Now on to happier times! My Spanish classes are going well- nearly four hours of classes every day fly by because I´m learning so much. It is tough to develop vocabulary (I´m stuck on school terms, food terms, and clothing terms that I learned in my earlier Spanish classes) but I´m learning more as I start to read things in Spanish.

It´s been a pretty quiet week as I´ve just been getting things set up and familiarizing myself with the area. I haven´t taken pictures yet but will get on that this weekend. I´m here for a while so there doesn´t seem to be a lot of urgency to take pictures.

This is the end of blog posting number two. I have high hopes that #3 will show up this weekend. We can all cross our fingers...

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

My first ever blog posting... how exciting!

¡Hola todos!

I have made a New Year´s-esque resolution to try to post updates and pictures from Nicaragua on this blog. I have never in my life used a blog, though, so these posts may be very basic and amateurish. Please bear with me as I slowly catch up to the rest of the blogging world. With that introduction out of the way, allow me to regale you with stories of the first three days of my adventure...

We (Amy and myself- Amy being another community health student) arrived in Managua, Nicaragua late on Monday, January 19th. After an uneventful airport experience and taxi ride, we arrived at the very nice Managua Backpackers´ Inn, a hostel with a pool, lounging chairs, TV, Skype, Internet, and all of the amenities one might want. Since all I really needed was a bed (we were heading north to Estelí in the morning), I watched a small bit of an Arnold Schwartznegger (sp?) movie in Spanish before heading to bed. Sorry pool, maybe next time.

The next morning (also known as yesterday, Jan. 20) we changed some money into cordobas, headed to the bus station, and boarded what we were led to believe was the express bus to Estelí. After several stops on the road before we even left Managua, we realized this was not the case and settled in for a 3 hour bus ride. In the mean time, however, we were charged double for the bus ticket. I like to think that in a few weeks I will have the Spanish skills to ask for my change but for now, I just smiled and accepted the fact that my $2.50 ticket became a $5.00 one. I´ve had worse things happen! I didn´t mind the longer bus ride as it was a cool chance to see the countryside- a very hilly, not so green landscape. Also, a guy from Orlando was sitting beside me reading T.D. Jakes and talked to me about his devotions. Interesting. Once we arrived in Estelí, it was off to the Spanish school to check ourselves in. Included in this school´s programming is one-on-one teaching, community activities, and a home-stay. I haven´t had any community activities yet (I think those start tomorrow) but did have a class today (Jan. 21) . When we arrived at the school, we had to write an entrance-type exam which was interesting and humbling. Another humbling experience? Being only marginally capable of communicating with the three-year old in my home-stay family. The poor child has been getting far too many blank stares from me. My first goal in the Spanish school is to be able to go one day without asking poor Hector "¿qué?" while staring stupidly at him. On the plus side, though, I seem to be learning as much from Discovery Kids "en español" as he is... thank you Backyardigans and "Jorge el curioso".

So... that´s it for now. This may be my only blog posting ever. I hope that it is not.